Urus Ishinca Tocllaraju

The expedition begins in Huaraz with a private transfer to the village of Pashpa. From here, we hike into the Ishinca Valley, gradually gaining altitude through open alpine terrain. Upon arrival, we establish our base camp at approximately 14,270 ft, surrounded by towering glaciers and peaks. This camp will serve as our operational hub throughout the expedition.

An early alpine start marks our first summit day. Urus Peak provides an ideal introduction to glacier travel and snow slopes, allowing the team to practice rope techniques and pacing at altitude. After reaching the summit, we descend back to base camp for rest and recovery, reinforcing acclimatization.

With improved acclimatization, we move on to Ishinca Peak. This ascent involves longer glacier sections and steeper snow slopes, offering a more demanding climb. Reaching the summit provides expansive views of Tocllaraju, reinforcing both motivation and altitude adaptation before returning to base camp.

This day is dedicated to recovery and preparation. We review technical systems, rope management, and ice climbing techniques. Equipment is checked thoroughly, and weather conditions are evaluated to plan the Tocllaraju ascent with maximum safety margins.

We break camp and ascend toward Tocllaraju, establishing a high camp on the moraine at approximately 17,060 ft. The route becomes more technical as we approach the glacier, and careful pacing is essential. The afternoon is spent resting, hydrating, and preparing for the summit attempt.

Summit day begins well before dawn. The ascent includes sustained snow and ice slopes, crevasse navigation, and sections requiring precise crampon and ice axe technique. Upon reaching the summit of Tocllaraju, climbers are rewarded with panoramic views across the Cordillera Blanca. After a controlled descent, we return to base camp.

he final day involves breaking camp and hiking back to Pashpa, where private transport awaits. Return to Huaraz concludes the Urus Ishinca Tocllaraju Expedition, marking the completion of a demanding and rewarding mountaineering journey.