Huascarán Climbing Expedition

We leave Huaraz in the morning by private transport and drive north through the Callejón de Huaylas toward Musho, the traditional starting point for the western approach to Huascarán.

After organizing the expedition equipment and meeting the support team, we begin the ascent toward Base Camp. The trail climbs steadily through rural terrain and native high-Andean vegetation before entering a more open mountain landscape.

We arrive at Base Camp at approximately 13,944 ft. The remainder of the day is used to rest, hydrate and prepare equipment for the transition into moraine and glaciated terrain.

• Huaraz altitude: Approximately 10,171 ft
• Musho altitude: Approximately 9,843 ft
• Base Camp altitude: Approximately 13,944 ft

After breakfast, we leave Base Camp and climb into increasingly rocky moraine terrain. The route becomes steeper and more demanding as we approach Moraine Camp at approximately 15,420 ft.

From the moraine sector, we continue toward the glacier. Depending on current conditions, the team may rope up and use crampons, ice axes and glacier-travel equipment as soon as the guide considers it necessary.

We continue to Camp I at approximately 17,388 ft. This is a significant gain in altitude, so the priority is to move at a controlled pace, hydrate well and conserve energy for the higher camps.

• Moraine Camp altitude: Approximately 15,420 ft
• Camp I altitude: Approximately 17,388 ft
• Ascent time: Approximately 5-7 hours

Today we move deeper into the upper glacier system of Huascarán. From Camp I, the route continues across snow and ice toward Camp II, requiring careful rope management and constant attention to glacier conditions.

Crevasses, snow bridges and ice formations can vary considerably from season to season. The mountain guide selects the safest available line and may adjust the route or timing according to current conditions.

Camp II is established at approximately 18,865 ft. The afternoon is dedicated to rest, hydration, equipment preparation and a detailed summit briefing before an early night.

• Camp II altitude: Approximately 18,865 ft
• Ascent time: Approximately 4-6 hours

Summit day begins well before dawn. After a final equipment and weather check, we leave Camp II roped together and continue through the upper glacier toward La Garganta.

The route can involve crevassed terrain, steep snow or ice sections and complex glacier features. Conditions on Huascarán can change significantly, so the guide may alter the line, delay the attempt or turn the team around if objective hazards become unacceptable.

From the La Garganta sector, we continue toward the upper slopes of Huascarán South. The extreme altitude makes progress slow and physically demanding even when the technical climbing is moderate.

If conditions, acclimatization and team performance allow, we reach the summit at approximately 22,205 ft. After a short stop, we begin the long descent back to Camp II. Safe descent is the main priority after the summit.

• Summit altitude: Approximately 22,205 ft
• Climbing and descent time: Approximately 10-14 hours, depending on conditions

After the summit attempt, we begin the descent from Camp II toward Base Camp. Although we are losing altitude, the upper glacier remains serious terrain and requires concentration, especially with accumulated fatigue.

The team descends carefully through the glacier, Camp I and the moraine sector. Ropes, crampons and other technical equipment remain in use for as long as conditions require.

Back at Base Camp, we leave the technical mountain behind and can finally rest more comfortably after the most demanding days of the expedition.

• Descent time: Approximately 5-7 hours
• Overnight: Base Camp

On the final morning, we descend from Base Camp toward Musho. The trail returns through lower mountain terrain as the Huascarán massif gradually recedes behind us.

After approximately 3-4 hours of walking, we reach Musho, where our private transport will be waiting. We then drive back to Huaraz, completing six days of high-altitude climbing on Peru's highest mountain.

• Hiking time: Approximately 3-4 hours
• Return: Private transfer from Musho to Huaraz